November 15, 2014
The little Cesna banked sharply over the striated Hartmann mountains as the pilot flew the plane low over the Marienfluss valley.
Probably for my benefit we skimmed over the camel thorn trees and fairy circles which dot the yellow grasses covering the valley floor in this part of the Namib Desert. Ahead of us the gently curving Kunene River was a gash of blue in an otherwise burnt red-and-khaki landscape.
Beyond were the jagged peaks that guard the way into Angola. We landed on a strip of dirt rather than any form of airstrip marked only by a few half-submerged white painted tyres. By anyone’s standards this part of Kaokoland – three hours’ flight by light aircraft from the capital, Windhoek, and seven hours’ drive from the nearest shop of any note at Opuwo – is remote. The only remaining native inhabitants are the semi-nomadic Himba people.
The lodge here is small and tranquil – a place where all that can be heard is the murmur of the river and gentle dawn chorus of birdsong. It is definitely the end of the line and a seriously wonderful place in which to escape the world. The wide sand dune belt which stretches all along the Namibian coast gives way to gravel plains in the north – a seemingly harsh environment that has a stark and other worldly beauty.
You don’t see huge herds of game here in this north-western corner of Namibia or by the ephemeral rivers further south – after all this is the desert with next to no rainfall – but it is astonishing how many animals do manage to eke out an existence: ostrich, oryx, springbok and jackal thrive, and there is even a number of lion which can go without water for up to five days, as can desert-adapted elephants and rhinos.
Whilst some might say Namibia, perhaps because it doesn’t boast the large numbers of game to be found elsewhere, is a second-time African destination, you do see animals on a bigger scale in Etosha National Park where the variety of species to be found at the many water-holes impresses. On just driving from one side of the park to the other I saw all of the big five bar buffalo, as well as a host of other plains game.
I stayed on the edge of the park at Onguma Fort, without doubt the most stylish property in the area. From the main deck you can stretch out and watch the animals come down to drink at the waterhole. As you may have gathered, the best game viewing is all to do with waterholes!
But it is the little animals that surprise too and a living desert tour will be a highlight of your holiday when you stop at the coastal resort of Swakopmund. You are taken early into the dune belt and shown the “bushman newspaper” – tracks in the sand left from the animals’ activities of the night before.
Your guide will show you the weirdly translucent web-footed gecko, the Namaqua chameleon which, with a tongue as long as its body, catches insects with razor-sharp precision, and the dancing white lady spider that on sensing danger rolls itself into a ball and does a roly-poly down the dunes faster than its predators. Children absolutely love this tour.
It is an easy country to drive around by yourself, although having a guide to drive and look after you can be an easier way in which to enjoy it all. Some scenic flying is essential if one is fully to appreciate the drama of the country’s terrain. Up in the air, one moment you can be marvelling at extraordinary rock formations and the next flying low over the skeleton coast seeing the rusting hulks of shipwrecks, flocks of flamingos and then thousands of seals.
Namibia is a country of infinite variety, so it was no surprise on this recent trip to come across many travellers who have visited it many times. The more I go the more I want to return, and fortunately new places keep opening up. The fact that it is as big as France and England put together with a population of only two and a quarter million people means that the sense of space it gives one is unparalleled.
With the Namibian currency linked to the weak South African rand, your pounds go much further.
On visiting Namibia, so an old saying goes, you cry twice: first when you arrive, and then again when you have to leave.
For further information and bespoke itinerary planning please call Miles on 0207 723 5858.
Please call for further details. 020 7723 5858.
NB prices shown were current at the time of writing the newsletter and are not necessarily current now.
Please ask for an updated quote.
- A Sense of Place – A favourite place: Tanzania and Ruaha
- A Sense of Place – A favourite place in Botswana: the Okavango with elephants galore
- A Sense of Place – Here be dragons and a dark past
- A Sense of Place – Justice Regained
- A Sense of Place – Summer rains make the roads impassable
- A Sense of Place – ‘Those two ladies put light in my future.’
- A Sense of Place – The bird who lost its nest
- A Sense of Place – Talking with the Maasai
- Newsflash: first American guests to Tanzania since March 2020
- A Sense of Place – AFRICA NEEDS YOU
- Escape to Italy?
- Covid: the road still to be travelled.
- A trio of treats. Series of 3 (Part 3): Tiger reserves.
- A trio of treats. Series of 3 (Part 2): Khajuraho.
- A trio of treats. Series of 3 (Part 1): Lucknow.
- A Sense of Place – Engaged people may save the planet
- A word on lions and a trio of treats
- A Sense of Place – India’s most holy city
- A wealth of wilderness walks in Namibia
- Travel snippets from Miles
- A trio of treats on the green island of Pemba in the Zanzibar archipelago
- A Sense of Place – THE INSIDE TRACK on Cape Town guiding
- A Sense of Place – Migrations of people and beasts: East Africa
- A Sense of Place – An era of revolution and global alliances
- A Sense of Place – A walk on the wild side
- A Sense of Place – The ghost ingredient is back
- A Sense of Place – Liuwa Plains and Kafue National Parks – Zambia
- A Sense of Place – Literati in the Pink City, the Capital of Rajasthan
- A Sense of Place – A Tamil town still connected to Europe, Art Deco architecture, and temple antiquity in Southern India.
- A Sense of Place – Dreamy aquamarine sea and stunning safari with the Makuleke people
- A Sense of Place – A trio of lovely ladies in Hyderabad
- A Sense of Place – Entamanu, the wishing tree and walking with the Hadza tribe.
- We get you to places that others don’t… St Helena, Gt Zimbabwe ruins and Papua new Guinea
- A Sense of Place – Walking in the hippie hills of the Himalayas
- A Sense of Place – The Okavango: the river that never finds the sea
- A Sense of Place – The Great Rift Valley, Laikipia, Samburu warriors and Maasai Olympics.
- A Sense of Place – Escape the world in the Namib Desert
- Africa is a massive continent: a collection of 55 countries
- A Sense of Place – Zambezi Watery Wilderness
- A Sense of Place – Burma: the road beyond Mandalay
- Lake Malawi – Would you rather pay for the advertising or the experience?
- From shoe-shine boy to tourist guide in Ethiopia
- A Sense of Place – Ladakh, the Himalayas
- Dhow sailing, Lions are back in Malawi, Self-drive in Namibia
- Sacred rivers and forts, India
- Piranhas, sting rays, caimans – and still people go into the River Negro!
- Kerala, Southern India – God’s own country
- South Africa: Crucible of the rainbow nation
- Madagascar: croissants and lemurs
- Argentina vs Africa on wildlife drama
- Uganda – Gorillas and Gardens
- Mozambique & Kenya: immigration official on holiday
- Mozambique: Gorongosa and reconciliation in the bush
- Zimbabwe is ready for Tourists again
- Serengeti ecosystem and unbeatable savannah
- Lamu: crab complaining
- Kenya: circumcision
- Zambia: Ellie rescue
- Africans: always smiling
- French sketch
- Kenya: the best hosts
- First visit to Africa 1986
- Namibia, Namib Rand, Skeleton Coast and the ultimate flying safari
- A few gems off the beaten track: Fanjove Island, Tanzania; The Singular Hotel, Patagonia and Isla Palenque, Panama.
- Elephant relocation, quad bike expedition and new Sossusvlei reserve
- Templed out in Tamil Nadu and elephant refuge in Jaipur
- Kenyan sanctuary and family run camp in Zambia
- Australia: Arkaba, Tasmania and Lord Howe Island
- Australia: in the outback and off the beaten track
- India: heavenly Himalayan hideaways, Botswana: fun safari for children and Argentina: hidden homestay in a mountain desert
- Limpopo retreat, Serengeti spectacle and adventure on the Zambezi
- Value for money in Kenya and the trail less travelled in Peru
- Lions in danger, free nights and a new coastal gem
- G and T on demand, hidden beach, micro-light and sleeping on a dam
- Off the beaten track